For this trip, I was lucky enough to snatch a really cheap seat on the Ghan – Australia's famous train that runs from Adelaide to Alice Springs to Darwin (although prior to 2004 it only went from Adelaide to Alice). A ride on the Ghan is a truly memorable and unique experience which can be savoured over 2 nights and 3 days. The same company offers train services between Sydney-Perth and Adelaide-Melbourne. There is a huge difference between the red, gold and platinum services offered but I found that being segregated in a private cabin from the rest of commuters would have been a total loss to me, because all the people I met on the train were immensely fascinating and colourful characters with lots of captivating stories to share.
Adelaide is approximately 3 200 km away from Darwin and can be reached by train, car or even a bicycle!
The journey started in Adelaide, sitting on a bench in the middle of Rundle Mall on a typical Tuesday morning. Adelaide is definitely in my top 3 favourite cities in Australia. I always feel there's a special atmosphere in Adelaide, unique to that place and time. Whether it's the buskers in Rundle Mall, coffee shops on every corner of the city or the beautiful architecture encompassed by the 4 main terraces of the CBD, Adelaide is a miniature and self reliable city with a lot of character and charisma.
After boarding the train in Adelaide earlier in the day, our first stop was at Port Pirie, followed by Port Augusta where we spent about half an hour. Unfortunately this stop along with many others was too short to allow a little sightseeing around town. When we set off from Port Augusta, the sun began to sink and we readied ourselves for sleep.
The following morning we awoke to this astonishing view: red barren land, dehydrated and scorched by the merciless sun. It is hard to imagine that life can exist in this arid land, yet alone that people have survived here for many thousands of years (albeit Australia hasn't always been so barren). Conditions in the red centre are harsh and unforgiving, and anyone wishing to venture into this area should ensure they're well informed and prepared.
Iron Man monument in outback South Australia signifying 1,000,000 sleepers from Adelaide.
After crossing the NT border, and stopping off at Kulgera, Finke river crossing appeared.
Outback NT. I would imagine this is the image most people have of Australia – red soil with scattered shrub stretching out to the oblivion and aching in the soaring temperatures under the blue dome. As relentless as it may be, the sheer vastness and immensurability alone make this land incredibly majestic.
On the second day we arrived at Alice Springs. This town in the heart of Australia feels like a safe haven in the middle of nowhere. Apart from being an important cultural site, it is also a monument to man's relentless efforts to defy nature and inhabit the harshest of Earthly environments.
Unfortunately a short stroll to the town centre (Todd Mall pictured) and a light lunch was all the time we had before having to return to the train station.
It can be organised, however, to hop off the train at Alice, spend a few days in town and catch the next train up to Darwin (or back to Adelaide).
More of Alice Springs.
As we continued travelling North through Sturt Plateau, it became clear that we were heading towards the tropics. Dry red soil and parched tussock grasslands were replaced by bristling yellow thicket and Eucalyptus woodlands.
The Ghan, stationed at Katherine.
While we were stationed at Katherine, we decided to take a little walk through the savannah.
These termite mounds in the dense perennial grass can reach pretty impressive heights sometimes (not on this occasion though).
Elizabeth river and Darwin in the far distance. At last we could see our final destination.
Now see Darwin! (Link soon to go live)